You might be saying, "Hey Glitch, what do I need a new identity for?"
The answer is simple. You might want to go buy liquor somewhere, right?
You might want to go give the cops the false name when you get busted so you keep your good name, eh? You might even want to use the new identity for getting a P.O. Box for carding. Sure! You might even want the stuff for renting yourself a VCR at some dickless loser of a convenience store. Here we go:
Getting a new ID isn't always easy, no one said it would be. By following these steps, any bozo can become a new bozo in a couple weeks.
STEP 1
The first step is to find out who exactly you'll become. The most secure way is to use someone's ID who doesn't use it themselves. The people who fit that bill the best are dead. As an added bonus they don't go complaining one bit. Go to the library and look through old death notices. You have to find someone who was born about the same time as you were, or better yet, a year or two older so you can buy booze, etc. You should go back as far as you can for the death because most states now cross index deaths to births so people can't do this in the future. The cutoff date in Wisconsin is 1979, folks in this grand state gotta look in 1978 or earlier. Anything earier there is cool. Now, this is the hardest part if you're younger. Brats that young happen to be quite resilient, takin' falls out of three story windows and eating rat poison like its Easter candy, and not a scratch or dent. There ain't many that die, so ya gotta look your ass off. Go down to the library and look up all the death notices you can, if it's on microfilm so much the better. You might have to go through
months of death notices though, but the results are well worth it. You gotta get someone who died locally in most instances: the death certificate is filed only in the county of death. Now you go down to the county courthouse in the county where he died and get the death certificate, this will cost you around $3-$5 depending on the state you're in. Look at this hunk of paper, it could be your way to vanish in a cloud of smoke when the right time comes, like right after that big scam. If You're lucky, the slobs parents signed him up with social security when he was a snot nosed brat. That'll be another piece of ID you can get. If not, thats ok too. It'll be listed on the death certificate if he has one. If you're lucky, the stiff was born locally and you can get his birth certificate right away.
STEP 2
Now check the place of birth on the death certificate, if it's in
the same place you standing now you're all set. If not, you can mail
away for one from that county but its a minor pain and it might
take a while to get, the librarian at the desk has listings of where
to write for this stuff and exactly how much it costs. Get the Birth
cirtificate, its worth the extra money to get it certified
because thats the only way some people will accept it for ID. When yur
gettin this stuff the little forms ask for the reason you want it,
instead of writing in "Fuck you", try putting in the word "Geneology".
They get this all the time. If the Death certificate looks good for
you, wait a day or so before getting the certified birth certificate
in case they recognize someone wanting it for a dead guy.
STEP 3
Now your cookin! You got your start and the next part's easy.
Crank out your old Dot matrix printer and run off some mailing labels
addressed to you at some phony address. Take the time to check your
phony address that there is such a place. Hotels that rent by the month
or large apartment buildings are good, be sure to get the right zip
code for the area. These are things that the cops might notice that
will trip you up. Grab some old junk mail and paste your new lables
on them. Now take them along with the birth certificate down to the library.
Get a new library card. If they ask you if you had one before say that
you really aren't sure because your family moved around alot when
you were a kid. Most libraries will allow you to use letters as a form
of ID when you get your card. If they want more give them a sob story
about how you were mugged and got your wallet stolen with all your
identification. Your card should be waiting for you in about two weeks.
Most libraries ask for two forms of ID, one can be your trusty Birth
Certificate, and they do allow letters addressed to you as a second
form.
STEP 4
Now you got a start, it isn't perfect yet, so let's continue. You should
have two forms of ID now. Throw away the old letters, or better yet
stuff them inside the wallet you intend to use with this stuff.
Go to the county courthouse and show them what nice ID you got and get
a state ID card. Now you got a picture ID. This will take about two weeks
and cost about $5, its well worth it.
STEP 5
If the death certificate had a social security number on it you can go
out and buy one of those metal SS# cards that they sell.
If it didn't, then you got all kinds of pretty ID that shows exactly
who you are. If you don't yet have an SS#, Go down and apply for one,
these are free but they could take five or six weeks to get,
Bureaucrats you know... You can invent a SS# too if ya like, but the motto
of 'THE WALKING GLITCH' has always been "Why not excellence?".
STEP 6
If you want to go whole hog you can now get a bank account in your new
name. If you plan to do alot of traveling then you can put alot
of money in the account and then say you lost the account book. After
you get the new book you take out all the cash. They'll hit you
with a slight charge and maybe tie-up your money some, but if you're
ever broke in some small town that bank book will keep you from being
thrown in jail as a vagrant.
ALL DONE?
So kiddies, you got ID for buying booze, but what else? In some towns
(the larger the more likely) the cops if they catch you for something
petty like shoplifting stuff under a certain dollar amount, will just
give you a ticket, same thing for pissing in the street. Thats it!
No fingerprints or nothing, just pay the fine (almost always over $100)
or appear in court. Of course they run a radio check on your ID, you'll
be clean and your alter-ego gets a blot on his record.
Your free and clear. Thats worth the price of the trouble you've gone
through right there. If your smart, you'll toss that ID away if this
happens, or better yet, tear off your picture and give the ID to someone
you don't like, maybe they'll get busted with it.
If you're a working stiff, here's a way to stretch your dollar. Go to work
for as long as it takes to get unemployment and then get yourself fired.
Go to work under the other name while your getting the unemployment.
With a couple of sets of ID, you can live like a king. These concepts
for survival in the new age come to you compliments of THE WALKING GLITCH.
First release of this phile 7/7/88.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
The ring master gun I * *------------------------------* how to build a .22
The gun which I am about to explain how to build is an original style zip-
gun. Other zip-guns have been made, but most have been of inferior quality
and are very dangerous to operate. The gun I have constructed is easy to use
and safe to operate.
History:
-------
zip-guns where used during the gang war era because of their easiness to
build and their small size. Many prisoners of have been known to construct
zip-guns while in jail (but I have not heard of any prisoner escaping using
a zip-gun).
===========
-Materials-
===========
you will need:
-------------
(1) ball point pen - approximately 5.3 Inches long (metal).
(1) Strong spring - approximately 1.59 Inches long (able to fit inside
2nd half and a little bit of the first).
(1) Strong metal bar - approximately 2.5 Inches long (able to fit
inside pen).
(1) Strong small metal bar (a little bigger then the circumference of
the spring and able to slide easily thru the 2nd half of the pen).
A few .22 Caliber bullets.
Optional:
--------
(1) soldering iron.
==============
-Construction-
==============
-please note: diagrams not to scale.
First untwist the ball point pen and take out all the insides (you may
break them to get them out because they are not needed and should be
discarded (see diag. A).
-The pen (diag. A)-
--------------------------
-< + :*]
--------------------------
^ ^
1St half 2nd half
< denotes pen tip (where the ink comes out).
+ Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
Now take the metal bar (larger one) and attach it to the push button (see
Diag. B).
-Firing pin (diag.B)-
--------------------*
^ ^
metal bar push button
you can attach it by either shoving the metal bar into the bottom
or by soldering it in place (please note: I recommend soldering the metal
bar in place). Important - the metal bar must be attached in the exact
middle of the push button (the metal bar will act as a striking pin and
must be in the exact center so it will strike the middle of the bullet
causing the bullet to go off).
With the metal bar now firmly attached to the push button, put the
push button inside the pen like it should be (see diag. C).
-Firing pin placement (diag. C)
--------------------
-B-B-:-B-B-B-B-B-B-B-B-B-*]
--------------------
^
2nd half
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
Now take the spring and slide it over the metal bar (see diag.D).
-Placement of spring (diag. D)
---------------------
-B-B-:BXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXB*]
---------------------
^
2nd half
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
X denotes spring around metal bar.
Now with the spring around the metal bar and the push button where it
Should be, attach (by soldering or twisting, soldering preferred) the
small metal bar to the metal bar (see diag.E).
-Attachment of small metal bar
(diag. E)
. -------------------
-B-B^B-:BXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXB*]
' -------------------
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
X denotes spring around metal.
^ denotes small metal bar attached to metal bar.
Note: it might also be helpful to solder the small metal bar to the
Spring along with soldering it to the metal bar.
==========================
-Test of firing mechanism-
==========================
pull back push button as far as it will go while holding onto the second
half of the pen. Now let go and the metal bar (longer one) should snap
forward and then return to its approximate starting position.
==============
-Finishing up-
==============
placement of bullet:
-------------------
a .22 Caliber bullet should now be placed in the 1st half of the "pen"
approximately 1 1/2 millimeters in front of where the metal bar would
be if the "pen" was put back together. Be sure to tape (or whatever you think
will work) the bullet inside the casing or else the bullet, if moved,
might go off accidentally (see diag.F).
-Bullet placement (diag. F)-
---------------------------
< <* -B^B:BXXXXXXXXXXXB*]
---------------------------
^ ^
1St half 2nd half
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (sepearation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
X denotes spring around metal bar.
^ denotes small metal bar attached to metal bar.
How to operate:
--------------
Pull back on push button as far as it will go, then let go - the bullet
has just been fired (easy, right?).
If you wish to shoot another bullet, untwist the "pen", take out the
shell and reload (see placement of bullet).
Notes:
-----
the bullet will tumble when shot instead of the spiraling because the
inside of the 1st half (the barrel) has no lands or grooves. Tumbling
is good because the bullet will rip thru a target, but it does cause the
bullet to be off target approximately 3-4 inches. Having no lands or grooves
makes the bullet hard to be traced back to its source (no striations).
If you wish to make lands and grooves, you can by taking a screw and
twisting it inside the 1st half of the "pen" (adds striations to bullet).
I would also advise you to cut off the tip of the "pen". If the tip is
left on, the bullet will still shoot, but it will blow thru the tip and send
pieces of the pen flying in different directions (also causing the bullet to
be off target.)
-Optional: diagram-removal of tip-
/
/----------------
--/ :
< / :
--/ :
/----------------
/
< denotes tip (where ink used to come out).
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
/ Denotes where tip should be removed (just enough to let the
bullet shoot out).
How it should look when it is complete
-complete diagaram (with tip removed)-
-----------:-------------
/-----------:-------------
<*+= B-^-:BXXXXXXXXXXXB*]
/-----------:-------------
-----------:-------------
/ Denotes where the pen "caves in" after tip is removed.
<*+= Denotes .22 Bullet taped to bottom.
-B- denotes metal bar.
^ denotes small metal bar.
: Denotes middle (the separating point of the pen).
X denotes spring around metal bar.
*] denotes push button.
============================
-Advantages & disadvantages-
============================
disadvantages:
-------------
(1) one shot capacity-only one bullet can be shot at a time (you must
reload the gun everytime you want to shoot).
(2) Not as accurate as a regular .22 Caliber gun (but the gun was not
intended for target shooting).
(3) Looking like a pen may cause dangerous situations.
Advantages:
----------
(1) easy to build.
(2) Easy to use.
(3&4) Easy to conceal and discard.
(5) Low cost (almost nothing).
----------------------------------------
Later, dazed and confused ones...
-=*>Invisible stalker
hell's hackers<*=-
look for:
--------
military numbers and how to access them
portable black box
portable white box
ring master gun volume i-iii
telenet hacking volume I & ii
trace detection
trashing techniques volume i-iii
voice memo hacking volume I & ii
gun. Other zip-guns have been made, but most have been of inferior quality
and are very dangerous to operate. The gun I have constructed is easy to use
and safe to operate.
History:
-------
zip-guns where used during the gang war era because of their easiness to
build and their small size. Many prisoners of have been known to construct
zip-guns while in jail (but I have not heard of any prisoner escaping using
a zip-gun).
===========
-Materials-
===========
you will need:
-------------
(1) ball point pen - approximately 5.3 Inches long (metal).
(1) Strong spring - approximately 1.59 Inches long (able to fit inside
2nd half and a little bit of the first).
(1) Strong metal bar - approximately 2.5 Inches long (able to fit
inside pen).
(1) Strong small metal bar (a little bigger then the circumference of
the spring and able to slide easily thru the 2nd half of the pen).
A few .22 Caliber bullets.
Optional:
--------
(1) soldering iron.
==============
-Construction-
==============
-please note: diagrams not to scale.
First untwist the ball point pen and take out all the insides (you may
break them to get them out because they are not needed and should be
discarded (see diag. A).
-The pen (diag. A)-
--------------------------
-< + :*]
--------------------------
^ ^
1St half 2nd half
< denotes pen tip (where the ink comes out).
+ Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
Now take the metal bar (larger one) and attach it to the push button (see
Diag. B).
-Firing pin (diag.B)-
--------------------*
^ ^
metal bar push button
you can attach it by either shoving the metal bar into the bottom
or by soldering it in place (please note: I recommend soldering the metal
bar in place). Important - the metal bar must be attached in the exact
middle of the push button (the metal bar will act as a striking pin and
must be in the exact center so it will strike the middle of the bullet
causing the bullet to go off).
With the metal bar now firmly attached to the push button, put the
push button inside the pen like it should be (see diag. C).
-Firing pin placement (diag. C)
--------------------
-B-B-:-B-B-B-B-B-B-B-B-B-*]
--------------------
^
2nd half
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
Now take the spring and slide it over the metal bar (see diag.D).
-Placement of spring (diag. D)
---------------------
-B-B-:BXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXB*]
---------------------
^
2nd half
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
X denotes spring around metal bar.
Now with the spring around the metal bar and the push button where it
Should be, attach (by soldering or twisting, soldering preferred) the
small metal bar to the metal bar (see diag.E).
-Attachment of small metal bar
(diag. E)
. -------------------
-B-B^B-:BXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXB*]
' -------------------
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
X denotes spring around metal.
^ denotes small metal bar attached to metal bar.
Note: it might also be helpful to solder the small metal bar to the
Spring along with soldering it to the metal bar.
==========================
-Test of firing mechanism-
==========================
pull back push button as far as it will go while holding onto the second
half of the pen. Now let go and the metal bar (longer one) should snap
forward and then return to its approximate starting position.
==============
-Finishing up-
==============
placement of bullet:
-------------------
a .22 Caliber bullet should now be placed in the 1st half of the "pen"
approximately 1 1/2 millimeters in front of where the metal bar would
be if the "pen" was put back together. Be sure to tape (or whatever you think
will work) the bullet inside the casing or else the bullet, if moved,
might go off accidentally (see diag.F).
-Bullet placement (diag. F)-
---------------------------
< <* -B^B:BXXXXXXXXXXXB*]
---------------------------
^ ^
1St half 2nd half
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (sepearation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
X denotes spring around metal bar.
^ denotes small metal bar attached to metal bar.
How to operate:
--------------
Pull back on push button as far as it will go, then let go - the bullet
has just been fired (easy, right?).
If you wish to shoot another bullet, untwist the "pen", take out the
shell and reload (see placement of bullet).
Notes:
-----
the bullet will tumble when shot instead of the spiraling because the
inside of the 1st half (the barrel) has no lands or grooves. Tumbling
is good because the bullet will rip thru a target, but it does cause the
bullet to be off target approximately 3-4 inches. Having no lands or grooves
makes the bullet hard to be traced back to its source (no striations).
If you wish to make lands and grooves, you can by taking a screw and
twisting it inside the 1st half of the "pen" (adds striations to bullet).
I would also advise you to cut off the tip of the "pen". If the tip is
left on, the bullet will still shoot, but it will blow thru the tip and send
pieces of the pen flying in different directions (also causing the bullet to
be off target.)
-Optional: diagram-removal of tip-
/
/----------------
--/ :
< / :
--/ :
/----------------
/
< denotes tip (where ink used to come out).
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
/ Denotes where tip should be removed (just enough to let the
bullet shoot out).
How it should look when it is complete
-complete diagaram (with tip removed)-
-----------:-------------
/-----------:-------------
<*+= B-^-:BXXXXXXXXXXXB*]
/-----------:-------------
-----------:-------------
/ Denotes where the pen "caves in" after tip is removed.
<*+= Denotes .22 Bullet taped to bottom.
-B- denotes metal bar.
^ denotes small metal bar.
: Denotes middle (the separating point of the pen).
X denotes spring around metal bar.
*] denotes push button.
============================
-Advantages & disadvantages-
============================
disadvantages:
-------------
(1) one shot capacity-only one bullet can be shot at a time (you must
reload the gun everytime you want to shoot).
(2) Not as accurate as a regular .22 Caliber gun (but the gun was not
intended for target shooting).
(3) Looking like a pen may cause dangerous situations.
Advantages:
----------
(1) easy to build.
(2) Easy to use.
(3&4) Easy to conceal and discard.
(5) Low cost (almost nothing).
----------------------------------------
Later, dazed and confused ones...
-=*>Invisible stalker
hell's hackers<*=-
look for:
--------
military numbers and how to access them
portable black box
portable white box
ring master gun volume i-iii
telenet hacking volume I & ii
trace detection
trashing techniques volume i-iii
voice memo hacking volume I & ii
ripping off pop machine
Ok. First of all, I have tried every single file I could find on how
to rip off coin changers, candy machines, etc. etc. None of them worked.
Believe me, I tried every one. I don't know if these articles were just to
gain a better U/L D/L ratio or what but they didn't work. I have one that
does.
This trick only works on COCA COLA machines. Don't ask me why. It has
something to do with the validator on the machines.
Take a dollar bill (as crisp as possible) and lay it
george-side-up with our dear first prez. facing left as if you were going to
stick it in the machine. now take some scotch tape and make 2 strips a long as
the dollar. now take those pieces of tape and attach them to the white edge of
the dollar facing you (just the one edge). your dollar should look like this
now.
-----
- - <---- Dollar
- -
- -
- -
+---+
| |
| | <---Strips of tape
| |
| |
Now take scotch tape and make bars across the two pieces of tape
already connected to your dollar(sort of like a ladder) overlapping each one
just a little. get down to the bottom and turn the bill over and do the same
thing on the other side (just the ladder rungs). now take a pair of sissors
and trim the tape to make it all even and square. now take something hard and
run it over the tape a few times to ensure that it won't come off. (remeber
kindergarten? put the glue on and press down hard while you count to 10?)
now you're ready. take your new and improved currency to the nearest coke
machine with a dollar bill vindicator and insert your dollar. you have to let
the bill go in almost until you cant hold the tape anymore (it's important to
let the bill get in far enough for the scanner to read the dollar) and then
whip it back out. You should hear the click of the machine and your change
drop out. make your selection and voila! Now the cool thing is when you find
a machine that only takes 50 cents. cause you get your coke and 50 cents!!
note: this document is for informational purposes ONLY. The author of this
article assumes no responsibility for the use or mis-use of this article.
thank you and c-ya later
od^Phreak
to rip off coin changers, candy machines, etc. etc. None of them worked.
Believe me, I tried every one. I don't know if these articles were just to
gain a better U/L D/L ratio or what but they didn't work. I have one that
does.
This trick only works on COCA COLA machines. Don't ask me why. It has
something to do with the validator on the machines.
Take a dollar bill (as crisp as possible) and lay it
george-side-up with our dear first prez. facing left as if you were going to
stick it in the machine. now take some scotch tape and make 2 strips a long as
the dollar. now take those pieces of tape and attach them to the white edge of
the dollar facing you (just the one edge). your dollar should look like this
now.
-----
- - <---- Dollar
- -
- -
- -
+---+
| |
| | <---Strips of tape
| |
| |
Now take scotch tape and make bars across the two pieces of tape
already connected to your dollar(sort of like a ladder) overlapping each one
just a little. get down to the bottom and turn the bill over and do the same
thing on the other side (just the ladder rungs). now take a pair of sissors
and trim the tape to make it all even and square. now take something hard and
run it over the tape a few times to ensure that it won't come off. (remeber
kindergarten? put the glue on and press down hard while you count to 10?)
now you're ready. take your new and improved currency to the nearest coke
machine with a dollar bill vindicator and insert your dollar. you have to let
the bill go in almost until you cant hold the tape anymore (it's important to
let the bill get in far enough for the scanner to read the dollar) and then
whip it back out. You should hear the click of the machine and your change
drop out. make your selection and voila! Now the cool thing is when you find
a machine that only takes 50 cents. cause you get your coke and 50 cents!!
note: this document is for informational purposes ONLY. The author of this
article assumes no responsibility for the use or mis-use of this article.
thank you and c-ya later
od^Phreak
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